Hydrozones: Grouping plants according to their water needs allows for more efficient irrigation as plants are less likely to be over or under-watered. Also, remember that smaller plants tend to have lower water requirements than larger plants.
Seasonal Interest: Think about the timing of the foliage, bloom and seed head displays of the planting material to ensure interest year round. Try to Incorporate spring, summer and fall interest in each planting group so that no place in the landscape looks bare.
Hardiness Zone: Use plants that will survive in our climate. Plant hardiness zones in Utah range from 4-9. The hardiness zones were established by the USDA and are based on the minimum, annual survival temperatures for plants. Plants for hardiness Zone 4 can survive -20 to -30 °F, Zone 5 can survive -10 to -20 °F, Zone 6 can survive 0 to -10 °F and Zone 7 can survive 0 to 10 °F. However, micro-environments created by the plant’s surroundings can also influence its hardiness for the region. Contact your local Utah State University County Extension Agent or go to the USDA Plant Hardiness Website to learn the hardiness zone of your area.
Lawns have many benefits including cooling effects, erosion control, water filtration and water infiltration. Lawns can withstand trampling and play that no other plant can handle. Lawns also need a lot less water than they are given.
At times it has seemed that water-wise landscaping might not allow for the use of turfgrasses at all. In fact, water-wise landscaping recognizes turfgrass as an integral component of the landscape.
In addition, as an herbaceous plant, turfgrass is often one of the first plants in the landscape to exhibit signs of drought stress. These facts coupled with a “more is always better” attitude toward landscape irrigation, predispose turfgrass areas to over-irrigation.
Turfgrass has some very specific benefits in the landscape. For example, it is the only landscape plant material that can withstand the stresses of traffic and mowing that are commonly applied to it.
One can trample it, tear it, mow it, and it grows back! It is also the most practical surface for many types of outdoor recreation. And mowed lawns are a standard component of many urban fire control strategies.
Turfgrass also provides many other environmental benefits. One such benefit is a reduction in the amount of surface runoff water. This is a key component to protecting water quality.
An average golf course, for example, can absorb 4 million gallons of water during a 1-inch rainstorm. A golf course or turf area can absorb far more than one inch of rain water without runoff, assuming it's not coming down too quickly. This is because a dense turf area can reduce runoff to virtually nothing. And when compared to a non-turf area (like a garden or agricultural field), grass areas can reduce runoff-induced soil erosion by up to 600 times (Whiting, et al., 2005).
Turfgrass also reduces environmental pollutants. It traps dust and pollen and controls wind erosion of soil. Turfgrass also moderates temperature levels, which can reduce the amount of energy used for home cooling in the summer months.
Turfgrass can be a practical and beautiful component of a water-wise landscape. As a design component, turfgrass invites participation in the landscape while providing unity and simplicity (Welsh, 2001).
Only use turfgrass in areas where it is functional. These areas may include play areas, areas receiving traffic, and areas needing temperature, noise, or dust mitigation. If the only time a turf area receives traffic is when it's mowed, perhaps a lower maintenance plant would work in that location.
Consider choosing turfgrass species with lower water requirements. In Utah, certain varieties of different turfgrass species perform better. These may be found in the bulletin Turfgrass Cultivars. This bulletin also discusses the characteristics and applications of commonly used turfgrass species in Utah. Another good resource is the Turfgrass Water Conservation Alliance (TWCA).
Consider using non-irrigated turfgrass areas. If the turfgrass is not performing a functional role, does it really need to be irrigated? Many turfgrasses can withstand considerable drought stress by entering dormancy (turning brown). When conditions improve, they will green up again.
Do not plant turfgrass in narrow, small, or oddly shaped areas that are difficult to irrigate efficiently. In these types of locations, there are many other plants that are more practical choices.
Hydrozoning in a water-wise landscape certainly applies to turfgrasses as well as other plants. Plan and design irrigation systems so that turfgrass areas are irrigated separately from other landscape plants. Also, become familiar with the actual water requirements of the turfgrass and don't exceed them.
Use cultural practices that will improve turfgrass water use efficiency. For example, mowing at a height of 2 ½ or 3 inches will encourage deeper rooting and improved heat and drought tolerance. Proper fertilization will also support healthy turfgrass and allow it to withstand the stresses of heat and drought better. Returning grass clippings when mowing also helps to reduce evaporation of water from the soil surface.
Mulch can provide many benefits in water-wise landscapes. Mulch covers the soil and prevents crusting, compaction, and water evaporation, while also providing an important visual design aspect. Choosing the right mulch for the situation is dependent on plant selection, watering regime and site use.
Power Rake ServicesMulch can provide many benefits in water-wise landscapes. Mulch covers the soil and prevents crusting, compaction, and water evaporation. In fact, mulching around trees, shrubs, and in flower beds can result in a ten-fold reduction in evaporative water loss from soil.
Reducing soil water loss means more water is available to plants and less water needs to be provided. Mulch also reduces the number of weeds in a water-wise landscape by preventing light-induced germination of weed seeds. With fewer weeds, less cultivation is required, which can prevent damage to plant roots, soil structure, and soil organisms. In addition, mulch moderates soil temperature and protects plant roots.
In winter, moderation of soil temperature can prevent plants from heaving out of the ground due to freezing and thawing. Mulch also can be an important visual design element in a water-wise landscape, and it is used along walkways, in plant borders, and for color and structure in a landscape or garden.
Organic mulches include materials such as wood or bark chips, shredded bark, nut shells, pine needles, or other discarded plant parts. These materials have the potential to enhance soil structure, increase soil fertility, prevent compaction, and increase soil organic matter as they break down and are incorporated into the soil.
Mulch is a great way to recycle yard waste, such as pruned woody plant materials, fallen leaves and needles, and even grass clippings. To ensure adequate water infiltration and aeration and to slow decomposition, make sure mulch particles are larger than the underlying soil particles (usually larger than a half inch in diameter).
Recycled plant materials must be free from weed seeds, disease-causing organisms, and pesticide and herbicide residues. You can either use disease-free plant parts that have not been chemically treated, or you can compost your mulch before use.
Composting results in controlled decomposition of organic materials through the activity of microorganisms and generates enough heat to kill weed seeds and disease organisms. Composting also may break down some pesticides that can injure growing plants.
In most cases, use of organic mulch increases the nutrient fertility of the underlying soil and decreases the need for fertilizer application to mulched plants. However, the use of fresh wood or bark as mulch may lead to temporary nitrogen deficiency because microorganisms that decompose these high carbon content materials use up nitrogen that otherwise would have been available to the plant.
This is mainly a problem if the mulch is incorporated into the soil. Nitrogen loss can be avoided by using composted mulch or by adding nitrogen at a rate of 1-2 lbs actual N per 1000 ft2.
Over time, organic mulches break down and will need to be replenished. Replenishment can be accomplished simply by adding more mulch over the top of the decomposed mulch material. Before adding new mulch, roughen up the old mulch layer to prevent formation of a water-impervious surface between old and new mulch.
Decomposition of organic mulches sometimes can lead to nitrogen deficiency. Watch plants for telltale signs of nitrogen deficiency. If you notice yellowing that starts in older leaves, as well as decreased vigor, replace lost nitrogen using the fertilizer rate listed above.
Inorganic mulches consist of non-plant materials and may include a variety of different kinds of rock or gravel. Different sizes and colors of inorganic mulches are available. The decision about which to use will depend upon the kind of landscape, the reason for its use, and its availability.
Examples include gravel or crushed stone, lava rock, recycled tumbled glass, and cobblestones of different sizes, shapes, and colors. The size of inorganic mulch particles should complement the scale of the landscape. For example, cobblestones work great in an expansive formal or naturalized setting or in a rock garden, but would be overwhelming in a small flower bed.
Inorganic mulches provide the same benefits as organic mulches, including moisture retention, temperature moderation, and prevention of compaction. In addition, inorganic mulches provide excellent drainage that is often required of drought-adapted plants. Inorganic mulches do not decompose and need to be replaced infrequently.
The disadvantage of inorganic mulch is that it does not add to soil fertility or organic matter, and plants will need to be monitored for signs of nutrient deficiency and fertilized accordingly.
Apply organic mulch to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, and inorganic mulch to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. A 2-inch thick layer of mulch requires about 6 cubic yards of material per 1000 square feet of area.